Unique fact:

1. Named after the color of the wood work of the interior NOT because of the red brick exterior.
2. Formerly known as one of the oldest Marine Academy in the world. The first Nautical Academy in the East.

In jalan Kali Besar Barat, Kota, Jakarta, which back in the era of VOC, it was the center of Batavia City, there is a building with a red colored facade. The name of the building is Toko Merah or Red Shop, located near stadhuis (Batavia Cityhall), still standing strong after 3 centuries.In its long existence, the building has been witnessing many important events in Batavia.

One incident that was just in front of the building, where the water of Groote Rivier (Kali Besar) flows, a big riots happened when there was a massacre of Chinese people in 1740 by VOC. Toko Merah also witnessed how bad the treatment towards the slaves in Batavia. They were traded and treated like animal. In this place, there were auctions for 162 slaves. In this Ciliwung creek, where the water was clear at those time, also once an area of many young people had their fun time playing their guitars and singing under the moonlight.

Toko Merah is rich of history that attracts many tourist and old building lover (that would be me! ☺). The building is actually consists of two combined houses. Its name derives from the red painted wood work of the interior. Built in 1730 by Gustaaf Willem Baron von Imhoff (1705-1750), who lived in the right or northern part far before being appointed Governor of Ceylon or Sri Lanka and during his term as member of the Council of the Indies (1736-­1741). His rich mother in law used the southern part. Later he installed the ‘Academi de Marine’ (1743-1755) in it in order to give a better education to the naval officers. This has been one of the oldest academies in the world.

Above is the two former company's chamber (now Numismatic room) in the National Museum. The doors, windows, and some furniture bought by the Bataviaasch Genootschap in 1901 are still exhibited in the Museum. The fanlight (right picture) shows a girl with a telescope, a reminder that Toko Merah was the first Nautical Academy in the East. This fanlight can still be seen in the National Museum at Medan Merdeka Barat.

Both houses were bought later by Philippine Theodora Mossel, the daughter of a governor-general, wife of Nic Hartingh, governor of the northern coast of Java. This name (Nic Hartingh) has an important role in Kraton Yogyakarta. But that would be another story.

In 1786-­1808, Toko Merah was used as an official guesthouse for men, which never flourished. After 1808 the house was owned and used by different companies till it was acquired by Oey Liaw Kong and his descendants (1851-1895). This may be why the name of Toko (shop) was added.

In 1910-1925, Toko Merah was rented by the Bank voor Indie and then by other companies (1925-­1933). The original white plastered wall on the front was taken away and the red bricks were painted red in 1923. In the same year some parts of the house which had been demolished earlier, were rebuilt using old material to create as near as possible the original atmosphere.

In 1934 Toko Merah was bought by the international trading company N.V. Jacobson van den Berg, which was nationalized in 1957. The company’s logo can still be seen on the balustrade of the staircase.

In Japanese occupation (1942) the building was used as a depot of medical equipment by the Japanese army. After 1947 the house was used by a state company, which since 1977 was named P.T. Dharma Niaga and kept the house in good condition till 2003. For a short time it became a gambling den. Its present use is still uncertain. I visited Toko Merah in June 2014, and the information that I’ve got from the guy who showed me around the building that they are renting the property for event. Well, hopefully the current owner is taking a good care of this beautiful two houses. If I may say.. why don’t they turn this building into a museum and share all the history of this building itself or the (once) oldest Nautical Academy. Sounds more useful.

Pictures above was when I climb the stairs in the office room of southern part house and led to a second floor with hardwood flooring facing the street and river on the front of the house.

Oh by the way, these (below) pictures are the rooms for rent for event function. I can see the current owner already made some redecoration and put up Air Conditioning. -SK-

References:

1. Heuken, A., Historical Sites of Jakarta, 7th edition, Cipta Loka Caraka, Jakarta 2007.
   
2. https://alwishahab.wordpress.com/2009/10/01/toko-­merah-­saksi-­sejarah-­voc/
   

At the time when Jakarta was known as Batavia, Menteng area was designed to be the first garden city (tuinstad) in Indonesia. Menteng is a residential area (from back then and up until now). The early design for the lay out of houses in Menteng area was each of every house built in a middle of spacious garden that planted with shade trees and various flowers to create a fresh atmosphere. The terrace was the favorite place of the house to lounged where you can enjoy your cup of tea in the afternoon accompanied by bitterballen or croquette (a savoury Dutch snack) or simple banana fritter after a day activity. While enjoying the breeze, you can hear the shout out of street vendor passing by selling bakso or semprong or serabi (Indonesian traditional food). Nowadays, a house such as described above is only left a few.

Bouwmaatschappij N.V. de Bouwploeg together with P.A.J. Moojen (1879-1955) were the initiator in designing road pattern and built Nieuw-Gondangdia, the former name of Menteng. Moojen designed Indische Woonhuizen or Tropical Classicism, where the particular elements had been faded and soften the typical European classicism.
They built an office building, Bouwploeg building (gedung Boplo) in 1912 which is now turned into a mosque of Cut Meutia. If you see the pictures below, you’ll notice there is a discontinuation of the big staircase from the second floor. The staircase didn’t end up on the first (ground) floor, where it was in the middle of the entrance hall. It was remodeled to have more space for people to pray.

Kunstkring is located in jalan Teuku Umar. Just opposite the street, there is this old house that attract my attention. This house was built around 1910 and from the black and white picture that was taken in 1939, there was a kiosk just in front of the house. Back then, you can found a kiosk such as this one in every intersection in Menteng. 

If we go straight in jalan Teuku Umar away from Kunstkring, we will find Taman (park) Suropati that was once named Burgemeester Bisschopplein after the first Batavia mayor's name, G.J. Bisshop (1916-1920). There is a turn to the left before Taman Suropati, that will lead you to Taman Situ lembang an artificial lake. The park is quite nice suitable for children to take a stroll in the afternoon or morning.

Suropati park
Address: Jl. Taman Suropati

Suropati park is the meeting point of three main road; jalan Teuku Umar, jalan Diponegoro, and jalan Imam Bonjol. Perfect for jogging, walking your dog, or simply to read a book. If you are lucky, in Sunday morning you will find a small orchestra played by children. Their name is Taman Suropati Chamber. Have a look on the video below, I shared from youtube account: Kristin Dameria.  

BAPPENAS building
A government office building that used to be a Vrijmetselarij Loge or the place where freemason member gather. Built in 1925 by Dutch architect F.J.L. Ghijsels born in Tulung Agung, East Java, in 1882.  

An Art Deco styled architecture, built in 1920s by Dutch architect J.F.L. Blankenberg. Owned by Nillmij insurance which is the forerunner of Jiwasraya insurance company. Aside of being a home of so many hosts, the most important point in our fight for freedom history, this house was the place where our first president, Soekarno, along with Hatta and Ahmad Soebardjo gathered to formulate our proclamation text that was read by Soekarno the next morning, August 17th 1945, in front of his house. The day that became Indonesia’s Independence day.

There are a lot of places that is interesting in Menteng district. I shall try to review most of it (one by one), but surely not in one article. Please follow our twitter @shrayakulture to find out an up date when we post the part 2 of this "The Menteng District" article. -SK-