Adventure in the land of North Maluku as if inhaling the scent of the past. When the triumph of cloves (Syzygiumaromaticum, syn. Eugenia aromaticum) and nutmeg (Myristica fragrans) that made the eastern region of the archipelago become one of the destinations for exploring many Western nations. Until now the clove and nutmeg trees still stand dashing on the slopes of Mount Gamalama even on the yard of the residents' house. Planting and picking clove and nutmeg trees are a daily work for some Maluku people. The aroma of cloves and nutmeg is already in their veins.
The triumph of clove trees on Ternate Island can still be seen from the oldest Afo Clove Tree that stands up to now. This living tree is the second tree from the ancestors of cloves that were planted about 400 years ago which then made Maluku famous overseas. The first tree had died from being struck by lightning.
 Afo Clove Tree |  Nutmeg tree with a nutmeg between the branches |
The Afo Clove Tree is located in Tongole Village, Air Tege-Tege, about 15 minutes from Ternate city center. Along the way to Tongole Village, we will be treated by the amazing open sea views. In the distance also appeared Maitara Island, the picture on the back of our Rp1.000 banknote.
Heading to the Afo Clove Tree, we need to hike on the slopes of Gamalama Mountain for 15 minutes. Surrounded by fresh air and along the way we can see overgrown clove and nutmeg trees. If flowering season, you can smell a faint aroma of clove and nutmeg flowers. After handpicked at harvesting time, the seeds of cloves and nutmeg are dried gradually in the sun over a period of six to eight weeks till the color change, black brownish for the cloves and nutmeg and crimson-color for nutmeg mace.
Crimson-color of the nutmeg mace (fuli) on the left. Black-brownish for the nutmeg on the right.
"Battle" of The European for Spices
The clove and nutmeg trees are indeed remind us of past history. When Europeans first landed in Maluku. When the East Indies were known as a producer of spices, especially cloves and nutmeg. The herb is used as a food preservative, cooking spices, and medicine. Because of the this efficacy, traders from West Asia who were dominated by Arabs tried to monopolize the spice trade to be sold to European merchants and get a profit that multiplied because of the expensive price.
In 1453, supplies of spices from Asia to Europe were stopped because Constantinople fell to the Ottoman Turks. This happened because the Ottoman Turks boycotted to the Europeans. That is why the Europeans then sailed to the Far East to find a source of spices.
The first European that came to Nusantara was Alfonso d'Alburqueque. He led the Portuguese fleet to conquer Malacca in 1511. The Portuguese thought by conquering Malacca as the center of the spice trade, they could also easily control the spice-producing center in Maluku. From Malacca d'Alburqueque headed to Maluku and was accepted by the King of Ternate. Portuguese is allowed to trade and build fortresses in Ternate.
The success of the Portuguese sparked the envy of the Spaniards. It was Del Cano who finally landed in Tidore when he returned to Spain after the Spanish fleet expedition arrived in the Philippines. Unfortunately, Magelhaens was killed when the road to Maluku was just one step away. Del Cano who replaced Magelhaens on the expedition. Since then, cooperation between Spain and Tidore has been established not only in terms of trade, but Spain also built a fortress in Tidore. The Portuguese based in Ternate felt threatened by the presence of Spain in Tidore. The Portuguese tried to get rid of Spain especially with the hostility between the Ternate Sultanate and Tidore, the Portuguese strategy was successful. Spain was successfully expelled from Tidore. But due to the Pope's interference in Rome, Portugal and Spain finally entered into an agreement called the Saragosa Agreement. Its contents, Maluku controlled by the Portuguese while the Philippines was controlled by Spain.
Europeans who were also interested in the aroma of this spice were the British. Francis Drake was an Englishman who managed to sail to Indonesia in 1579. Drake's fleet sailed back to England from Ternate with a ship full of spices.
At the beginning of the 17th century, Britain had succeeded in colonizing India but continued to try to develop its influence in Southeast Asia, especially in Indonesia. In 1604, England through the EIC (East Indian Company) successfully established trade offices in Ambon, Aceh, Jayakarta, Banjar, Jepara, and Makassar.
 | After England, it was the Dutch who were eager to master the spice trade in the archipelago. In 1595, Cornelis de Houtman successfully arrived in Banten. Because of his rude attitude, the Dutch were not accepted with an open arms by the Banten Sultanate. In addition because of the relationship between the Portuguese and Banten, which is still well established. The first fleet led by Cornelis de Houtman tried to reach Maluku but failed. The second fleet made it to Maluku and bought spices. The Dutch then more and more came to Maluku and other Indonesian ports so that the Portuguese were increasingly pushed to the point of being expelled from Maluku. Since that time, the Netherlands became the sole ruler of the spice trade in the archipelago and began colonialism in the Dutch East Indies under the guise of a VOC (Vereenigde OostIndische Compagnie) or East India Trade Association. |
The happy gastronomy researcher
Thank you for our contributor:
 | Heni Pridia Professional food stylist and food writer She is a former food editor at woman magazine for almost 14 years and now is working as a freelancer for food styling and food writing. She is also a researcher for gastronomy tourism for Tourism Ministry. She lives in Jakarta. IG @henipridia |
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