From the previous post in September, The Menteng District part 1 we learned the history of Menteng back in the colonial era, where the Dutch designed Menteng as the first garden city ‘tuinstad’ in Indonesia (formerly known as Dutch East Indies). Menteng was developed second after Kota Tua, where Jakarta or shall we say, Batavia back then, was covered by trees. Nowadays, because of its long period of time existence, Menteng has tall big trees and colonial buildings or houses where it is pleasantly to live in.

Menteng district is divided into 5 administrative villages or in our term, kelurahan (pronounce: keh-loo-raa-haan) : Menteng, Pegangsaan, Cikini, Kebon Sirih, Gondangdia.

Our guest house, Shraya Residence, is located right in the middle of jalan Surabaya, kelurahan Menteng of Menteng district (Kecamatan Menteng) just opposite the antique market. Jalan Surabaya is famous of its antique market on the left side of the street. It was originally started from some flea merchants came from pasar rumput (a traditional market from Manggarai area) back in 1960s selling home appliances on the side walk of jalan Surabaya. Among the goods, they sell antiques which turned out to be a popular item that people looked for. Since then, the merchants sell more antiques that attract more people and antique collector. In 1974 the government started to re-arranged the flea shops into a semi-permanent shop to be more presentable for tourist.

Jalan Cilacap, just next to jalan Surabaya, is where the colonial building (built in 1923) turned in to a beautiful hotel, The Hermitage. We wrote about The Hermitage in our previous post, you can read about it at http://www.shrayaresidence.com/shraya-kulture/colonial-building-turned-into-a-hotel .

If you walk further from jalan Surabaya to jalan Diponegoro direction, just before a red light, there's an intersection if you turn right into jalan Pasuruan, it will lead you to jalan Teuku Cik Ditiro. There, you can find coffeeshop, restaurants, hospitals, money changer, ATMs.

A particular restaurant called Bunga Rampai is a very lovely place. Beautiful as in architectural, interior, and the food. We also wrote about this restaurant in previous post. Click this link: http://www.shrayaresidence.com/shraya-kulture/lovely-restaurant-in-our-neighborhood-bunga-rampai to read all about it.

If you go straight from jalan Teuku Cik Ditiro (it is a one way street) to jalan RP Soeroso, you will entering Gondangdia area. Three restaurants in Gondangdia that have been there for 20 years or perhaps more. They are: Paramount, Trio, and Mie (noodle) Gondangdia. Paramount is a Chinese restaurant that often have wedding receptions famous for their Nanking chicken and crab soup. Trio is serving delicious black pepper beef, and other Chinese dishes. Mie Gondangdia is famous for its Ayam goreng mentega and puyunghai.

Cikini area is side by side with Gondangdia. Cikini has more commercial places than Gondangdia. You need anything, you name it, you can find it in Cikini. From eateries, bakeries, laundry shop, office or printing necessities, pharmacies, grocery stores, supermarket, jewelry shop, flower market, banks, office buildings, hotels, apartments, movie theaters, an art auditorium, until an Olympic sized swimming pool. Some eateries in Cikini area was already reviewed in our previous post, you can find it at http://www.shrayaresidence.com/shraya-kulture/eateries-in-jalan-cikini-raya . And.. an update of this previous post, a restaurant called Java Bleu already closed. Such a pity.

The hidden gem in Cikini area, I must say, it is the house of Raden Saleh. Raden Saleh was an aristocratic Javanese with an Arabic blood and became so famous because he was a briliant painter. His house is the only colonial building built not by the Dutch. Please read about his fabulous house at http://www.shrayaresidence.com/shraya-kulture/house-of-raden-saleh
Below are some of Raden Saleh's paintings and his house.

In Cikini you will find a gold center. It is a jewelry shop building, where in the basement you can find the traditional market that originally was located on that spot since as long as I can remember. I still remember accompanying my grandmother going to pasar Cikini to buy fruits, meats, anything. Even perfume shop.

If you just walk straight on Cikini Raya, and at the end of the street, on your left, you will find a movie theater with an Art Deco design, called Metropole XXI. Of course back then, it still called Metropole 21. The XXI means the theater already renovated with the new standard from the 21 cinema company. Even until this day, they still renovating for the food area. I just love the architecture, makes you feel that watching a movie with style.

In kelurahan Kebon Sirih, we have a museum that has an important role toward our Independence day. It is Museum Joang 45 and located in jalan Menteng Raya no. 31. Just before jalan Cikini Raya. This old building was a hotel (Hotel Schomper) built in 1938 by a Dutch businessman named LC Schomper. The hotel was meant for senior Dutch official, foreign businessmen, and local officials. When the Japanese invaded Indonesia, hotel Schomper controlled by Indonesian youth and used as dormitories and nationalism education for young men who fight for Indonesia’s independence. The name was replaced into Menteng 31 building. In 1973 the government was doing some renovation and in 1974 it was inaugurated by President Suharto and Jakarta Governor Ali Sadikin as Museum Joang 45 or we all call it as Gedung Joang 45.

On the back of the main building, there is an open area where they keep three cars of Soekarno and Hatta.

Menteng is an old neighborhood with residence that have been living in this district from generation to generation. We love our tall trees, narrow streets, old buildings, along with all its ugliness. Understanding the history of this city, it is saddened when you watch old buildings or houses abandoned until it crumble or demolished just so people could build a tall, prestigious concrete that doesn't goes along with the city's design. Usually they are a new resident in Menteng and didn't really understand the meaning of garden city and the beauty of a graceful heritage building. -SK- 

Unique fact:

1. Named after the color of the wood work of the interior NOT because of the red brick exterior.
2. Formerly known as one of the oldest Marine Academy in the world. The first Nautical Academy in the East.

In jalan Kali Besar Barat, Kota, Jakarta, which back in the era of VOC, it was the center of Batavia City, there is a building with a red colored facade. The name of the building is Toko Merah or Red Shop, located near stadhuis (Batavia Cityhall), still standing strong after 3 centuries.In its long existence, the building has been witnessing many important events in Batavia.

One incident that was just in front of the building, where the water of Groote Rivier (Kali Besar) flows, a big riots happened when there was a massacre of Chinese people in 1740 by VOC. Toko Merah also witnessed how bad the treatment towards the slaves in Batavia. They were traded and treated like animal. In this place, there were auctions for 162 slaves. In this Ciliwung creek, where the water was clear at those time, also once an area of many young people had their fun time playing their guitars and singing under the moonlight.

Toko Merah is rich of history that attracts many tourist and old building lover (that would be me! ☺). The building is actually consists of two combined houses. Its name derives from the red painted wood work of the interior. Built in 1730 by Gustaaf Willem Baron von Imhoff (1705-1750), who lived in the right or northern part far before being appointed Governor of Ceylon or Sri Lanka and during his term as member of the Council of the Indies (1736-­1741). His rich mother in law used the southern part. Later he installed the ‘Academi de Marine’ (1743-1755) in it in order to give a better education to the naval officers. This has been one of the oldest academies in the world.

Above is the two former company's chamber (now Numismatic room) in the National Museum. The doors, windows, and some furniture bought by the Bataviaasch Genootschap in 1901 are still exhibited in the Museum. The fanlight (right picture) shows a girl with a telescope, a reminder that Toko Merah was the first Nautical Academy in the East. This fanlight can still be seen in the National Museum at Medan Merdeka Barat.

Both houses were bought later by Philippine Theodora Mossel, the daughter of a governor-general, wife of Nic Hartingh, governor of the northern coast of Java. This name (Nic Hartingh) has an important role in Kraton Yogyakarta. But that would be another story.

In 1786-­1808, Toko Merah was used as an official guesthouse for men, which never flourished. After 1808 the house was owned and used by different companies till it was acquired by Oey Liaw Kong and his descendants (1851-1895). This may be why the name of Toko (shop) was added.

In 1910-1925, Toko Merah was rented by the Bank voor Indie and then by other companies (1925-­1933). The original white plastered wall on the front was taken away and the red bricks were painted red in 1923. In the same year some parts of the house which had been demolished earlier, were rebuilt using old material to create as near as possible the original atmosphere.

In 1934 Toko Merah was bought by the international trading company N.V. Jacobson van den Berg, which was nationalized in 1957. The company’s logo can still be seen on the balustrade of the staircase.

In Japanese occupation (1942) the building was used as a depot of medical equipment by the Japanese army. After 1947 the house was used by a state company, which since 1977 was named P.T. Dharma Niaga and kept the house in good condition till 2003. For a short time it became a gambling den. Its present use is still uncertain. I visited Toko Merah in June 2014, and the information that I’ve got from the guy who showed me around the building that they are renting the property for event. Well, hopefully the current owner is taking a good care of this beautiful two houses. If I may say.. why don’t they turn this building into a museum and share all the history of this building itself or the (once) oldest Nautical Academy. Sounds more useful.

Pictures above was when I climb the stairs in the office room of southern part house and led to a second floor with hardwood flooring facing the street and river on the front of the house.

Oh by the way, these (below) pictures are the rooms for rent for event function. I can see the current owner already made some redecoration and put up Air Conditioning. -SK-

References:

1. Heuken, A., Historical Sites of Jakarta, 7th edition, Cipta Loka Caraka, Jakarta 2007.
   
2. https://alwishahab.wordpress.com/2009/10/01/toko-­merah-­saksi-­sejarah-­voc/