Negeri Laskar Pelangi, only an hour away

"The sign in the airport welcomes passengers to “Pulau Belitung, Negeri Laskar Pelangi”.  All over the island, visual reminders of  the book and film are appearing.  Houses and power-poles are painted in rainbow colours and the government has recently built a souvenir kiosk painted in rainbow colours, at the filming location of the old school house, which is in danger of falling down. Part of it already has.

At Tanjung Tinggi Beach, the beautiful, moody and brooding beach with massive ancient and dark rocks in the shadows of the trees, another sign placed there by local government informs people that this is the location of filming of the film “Laskar Pelangi”. "

- Cynthia Webb, Journalist, Australia -

A quote on the above explains the power of writing. Belitung island become far more knowledgeable by the world, because of a novel that was published in 2005 written by Andrea Hirata, rather than only the biggest tin mine in the world that already discovered since the Dutch colonial and still producing up until now.   
Let's discover this beautiful island that only one hour flight away from Jakarta!

Courtesy of Pelly Sianova

Bangka Belitung islands is a province in Indonesia that lays on the east side of South Sumatera, separated by Bangka strait. Previously part of South Sumatera province, but became separate province in year 2000. Kepulauan Bangka Belitung consist of 2 main islands: pulau Bangka and pulau Belitung, that surrounded by hundreds of small islands.

Courtesy of kaskus.co.id

Belitung island consist of 2 regencies; Belitung and Belitung Timur (East). Bangka island consist of 4 regencies; Bangka, Bangka Barat (West), Bangka Tengah (middle), Bangka Selatan (South). The capital of Bangka Belitung islands province is Pangkal Pinang located in Bangka island. And Tanjung Pandan is the capital of Belitung regency.

The best way to get to Bangka Belitung islands is by plane that only took 1 hour long (Jakarta-Tanjung Pandan, Belitung). From Jakarta, there are some airlines that fly directly to Belitung island, such as; Garuda, Sriwijaya, Citilink, and Lion air.

Tanjung Pandan city. Courtesy of Rio.

Tanjung Pandan have several tour sites, the traditional house of Belitung, colonial building, museum, and of course the beach. In this traditional Belitung house, you'll find the bride and groom traditional clothes with the decoration and traditional music instruments.

I always fond of colonial architecture, so whenever I go traveling I always look for old houses or old buildings. In Bangka Belitung, all the colonial buildings are protected by government and use for government offices. Just like the picture below on the left. But coincidentally, I think I found the earlier time version of the same building (on the right). There's a bit change in the layout, the entrance and the right side of the roof, but you can see they are similar. Don't you think?     

Other colonial buildings in Tanjung Pandan...

Make time to visit the traditional market in Tanjung Pandan. You'll discover the multi-ethnic of Belitung people. The Melayu and Chinese ethnic. Assimilation of cultures shows in their culinary and lifestyle, which you'll discover in the next paragraf. Ow.. The lontong (rice cake) in Belitung are wrapped with Simpur leaves and in a form of cone (picture below). Different with the one we have in Java, which is wrapped in banana leaves and in a cylinder form. 

The population of Bangka Belitung islands are mostly Melayu ethnic. Other ethnics are Chinese and Javanese. The local people loves to eat fresh fish. They have this yellow fish soup as their special culinary by using the head part of the fish, called Gangan. The fish they are using for this particular dish is ikan Ketarap. A bit similar culinary in Bangka island, also a fish soup, called Lempah Kuning, but they are using ikan Tenggiri. And both of them have different method of cooking.

Tanjung Kelayang beach. Courtesy of Pelly Sianova.

"Gangan". The yellow fish soup of Belitung. Courtesy of Rio.

Martabak Bangka is their special street food. Martabak manis or sweet martabak can easily be found in Jakarta street food, where usualy the street vendor starts open in the evening. The martabak manis we knew now, has come a long way from Bangka, which (the original recipe) have a thin crust and filled ONLY with sesame seed (Picture on the left, but minus the chocolate). As time goes by, martabak has been evolved, as the crust become thick, and the filling have more variation and rich. Starting with the mix of chocolate (jimmies), cheese, condensed milk, sesame seed, and peanuts, until.. new variations where they change the chocolate jimmies with Nutella, or Toblerone, or Ovomaltine. The original martabak Bangka also called martabak Hok Lo Pan, invented by the Hakka Chinese (Khe) people when they came to Bangka Belitung islands in colonial era.

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The people of Belitung like their coffee very much. Even there is no coffee plantation in Bangka Belitung islands, they got their coffee greenbean from Robusta Lampung (Sumatera). They roast them by themselves with their own special recipes. The coffeeshops are not fancy, you may say it's a very humble place, but the coffee.. is something that you should try if you call yourself a coffee lover. That’s why in East Belitung regency, A city named Manggar, have a popular nickname: “Kota Seribu Satu Warung Kopi” (One thousand and one coffeeshops city). The men, usually hang out at the coffeshop in the morning around 8 am, where they can gather and gossip, exchange information, or make a business deal. The coffee shop is packed with men in the morning. But when the clock shows 9 am. Suddenly the coffee shop is empty. All the men goes to work. It is funny, if you’re around and observed the local’s culture in a coffee shop in the morning. Men also gossip. :)

There's this noodle place if you are a noodle lover and looking for culinary adventure. They wrapped the noodle with simpur leaves and cook on an old charcoal furnace. The soup is like using a seafood seasoning, like ebi (dried shrimp). The taste is wonderful.

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Courtesy of Rio

I think this kitchen's window of a coffeeshop, where they put their pots / kettles become an instant photo studio. Many tourist are posing on this spot. Hahaha.. It's kind of funny. [Pictures below are courtesy of Rio].

After visiting places in Tanjung Pandan, Belitung regency, now it's time to move to the second regency, East Belitung. Let's begin to discover the regency where 'Laskar Pelangi' made Belitung's name echoed to the literature world.

The beauty of Belitung island's nature has attract so many local and international tourist, but the booming of its tourism was started in year 2008 when a famous Indonesian movie “Laskar Pelangi” (Rainbow troops) was released. The film was shot in East Belitung regency, exposes the breath-taking pristine beach and nature of Belitung island. Travel agents even make a ”Laskar Pelangi” tour package, where they takes us to places that were in the movie scenes. Laskar Pelangi is a movie based on a novel titled “Laskar Pelangi” by Andrea Hirata. Since this movie been released, Belitung island has a nickname "Negeri Laskar Pelangi" (The land of rainbow troops).

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Some of the casts of Laskar Pelangi movie. The background is the school house same as the picture above.

Tanjung Tinggi beach with granite rocks is also one of the shooting location of Laskar Pelangi movie. Courtesy of Gerard Tambunan.

The Laskar Pelangi with their dedicated teacher, miss Mus, on the granite rock.

Tanjung Tinggi beach. Where they shoot some scenes for movie "Laskar Pelangi". Courtesy of Rio.

Not very far from the old school house, like a 15 minutes drive, Andrea Hirata open his ‘Museum Kata’ a Literary Museum in Gantong, East Belitung in 2010. The lay out of the museum was based on figures from his novel, Laskar Pelangi, and what’s inside the mind or character from each figures. He didn't put any fee entrance sign, but it is a pay-as-you-wish thing. Andrea encourage children of the local people to write.  

What amazed me most about this Laskar Pelangi (Rainbow Troops) and Kata museum was, all the fame that Andrea got from his novel and the movie based on his novel didn't make him forget to the people from his hometown. He built this Kata museum also to accommodate the children in his village to learn to write and learn English. I knew about this from a friend of mine, Cynthia Webb, a journalist, who happens to be a regular guest in our guest house at Shraya Residence whenever she come to Jakarta and also a good friend of Andrea Hirata. If I may quote few paragraph from her article about Laskar Pelangi:

"Andrea operates a free English School, and there are 23 enthusiastic teenage students.

Andrea said, ‘I feel amazed because I am myself still struggling with English. But there is a feeling that it’s better to do something, anything, rather than nothing, to help the children for their future. It is not easy to find English teachers in this remote place.  I am so encouraged seeing them making good progress with their confidence and now they disclose their aspirations and have started telling us their dreams. At first they were so shy they could hardly talk to us.’

They have been having these extra-curricular English lessons with Andrea for about nine months."

- Cynthia Webb, Journalist, Australia -

And this is what I like most from Cynthia's article. It was a message from Andrea that motivates people:

‘When I was a child I saw in the news that a person from Belitung had done well in sport in Jakarta, and I just couldn’t imagine that it was possible for someone from here to become famous,’ he said.  ‘So now I have the motto in the Museum display, Do I Inspire You? I hope that people will realise that if I can do it (succeed) then so can they.  It is so isolated here, even now.’

- Cynthia Webb, Journalist, Australia -

'He encourages everyone to speak, sing, say a poem.. The place (Museum) is a centre for music, and encouragement, for fun and belonging. It's very inspiring. Andrea shows amazing love for all the people in the community where he grew up. He is still amazed by what has happened to him, and realises that any one of these people might be the next ones to be national, or international successes' This is what Cynthia described about Andrea's doing at Museum Kata in her email to me, when I asked her for an opinion about the place. She explained it all. Very inspiring indeed!   

In Museum Kata, there is a room that has interior like an old setting of traditional coffeeshop. All the equipment very traditional by using the charcoal furnace. This rustic ambiance is to replicate the activity in the afternoon of the tin mine worker or labor or coolie (kuli) after working hours and have a break in a coffeeshop, hence "Kupi Kuli". 

Courtesy of Pelly Sianova

Got lost is a common thing for a traveler while discovering the mainland of Belitung island. There’s no ojek (motor taxi) and taxi was just started operating so they are running without meter. And most Belitung people have their own transportation car or motorcycle. So, there's a very limited public transportation, I would suggest to use a travel agent service. Although, getting lost sometime can be fun.

Still in Gantong, there is a batik home industry called Batik Simpor. It is perfect for souvenir and took place in a house of Purnama family, the house of Basuki Tjahaya Purnama, the Governor of Jakarta. The family encourage housewives in their neighborhood to be productive and create this beautiful batik clothes.   

We heard there is this oldest and biggest temple in Belitung island. They say, it was first discovered in 1747. I can imagine the beautiful of its oriental architecture. So let's go to Burung Mandi village, still in the East Belitung regency, to visit Vihara (temple) Dewi Kwan Im. This temple have a lot visitors every day. People come to pray or just to enjoy the art of the design.

Dewi Kwan Im temple have three area for pray. First area, called Shimunyo. And if you go to upper level, you’ll find the second area, called Sitiyamuni. Another further to upper level, you’ll find the third and the biggest area for pray, called Kon Im.

Every celebration day such as Chinese new year and Vaisak, this temple is packed with people from inside and outside country. They all come to pray at the temple. They believe if they pray inside this temple, their wishes and prayer will come true.

Having hundreds of small islands surrounding Belitung island, of course you don't want to miss out island hopping. All those exotic beaches.. Nope. Gotta go. By renting a boat from Tanjung Kelayang, or Tanjung Binga, or Tanjung Tinggi, you're off to visit those beautiful islands. Below are several pictures of the islands.

Pulau Batu Berlayar. Courtesy of Rio.

Pulau Burung. Courtesy of Rio.

Pulau Lengkuas with the Lighthouse tower. Courtesy of Rio.

http://suzannita.com/memanjakan-mata-di-belitung/

Pulau Lengkuas (Lengkuas island) is one of the beautiful sites among hundreds islets surrounding Belitung island. The main attraction is a lighthouse (mercusuar) that was built by Dutch colonial government in 1882. The lighthouse is 65 meters high, has 18 floors, and 313 stairs. Until now, the lighthouse is still well-function as the ship traffic guide to come and go from Belitung island. The amazing scenery with the unique granite rocks spread all over the beach, white sand, and a very clear water makes this island a must visit island when you come to Belitung. Lengkuas island is a very small island, you can go around it in 20 minutes, and can be reach by rental boat from Tanjung Binga (30-45 minutes) or Tanjung Kelayang (20 minutes) in Belitung island.

       [Pictures right below, is the view from up on the Lighthouse]

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Lengkuas island is not only beautiful above the water, but also very lovely underwater. You can go snorkeling or diving. There are some interesting diving spots and there is an Indomarine wreck. The Lighthouse caretaker also raise a green turtle.

Tips for visitor: Please bring your own drink water and always bring back the plastic bottle or litter in order to maintain the cleanliness of the island and the ecosystem.

Ooops.. What do we have here? Look at this little fellow. He also wanted a tan, sunbathing among us Lengkuas' visitors. He's handsomely cute. [Pictures right below, courtesy of Rio]

Kepayang island have a turtle and coral conservation and diving center. They also have lodging accommodation.

Belitung island offers its beautiful nature for tourism. To get the best scenery, we would suggest to visit Belitung from April to November. December to March is the rain season and will not be the best time to enjoy their lovely beaches.

Courtesy of Pelly Sianova

So... imagine your hectic days in a busy city like Jakarta with routines that leaves nothing but exhaustion. You only have few days or weekend for a short break vacation, away from the city. For only 1 hour flight, Belitung island is a perfect relaxation that you need. -SK-

Lengkuas island, Belitung. Courtesy of Pelly Sianova

Big thank you for our contributors:

Ms. Pelly Sianova
Advertising and Promotion at lifestyle retail company
Twitter: @MissSianova
Instagram: @pellysianova

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Mr. Gerard Tambunan
Architect
Instagram: @gerardtambunan
Website: www.wahanaarchitects.com

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Mr. Rio Ramdhano
Owner of travel agent Bangka Belitung Tour
Instagram: @bangkabelitungtour
Website: www.bangkabelitungtour.com

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Ms. Cynthia Webb
Journalist
Website: http://cynephilia.com

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